Architecture for travellers: a novice’s guide
Don’t know the difference between a plinth and a pilaster? You don’t need to be an expert to recognise a good building but understanding a little about architectural history and theory can make a walk around an unfamiliar city all the more rewarding.
Get to grips with the basics and see how many styles you can identify while on the road with our simple guide.
The Colosseum, Rome – a classic example of classical architecture © Steve Whiston / Getty Images
Classical
Era: 850 BC to 476 AD
The mother of all architectural styles, the elegant proportions and stately poise of classical architecture sired a legion of later revivals. The grand temples and civic structures of ancient Greece and Rome followed strict rules known as the ‘orders’ of architecture. The three most important are Doric, Ionic and Corinthian; all easily recognisable from their capitals (the decorative bit at the top of the columns).
How to spot it: Doric: plain capitals. Ionic: scroll-like capitals. Corinthian: elaborate capitals with carved acanthus leaves.
Where to find it: the Colosseum or Pantheon in Rome; the Acropolis, Athens.
The domes of Aya Sofya (Istanbul) dazzle, whether viewed from inside or out © Kav Dadfar / Getty Images
Byzantine
Era: 330-1453
With glittering mosaics and more domes than a field full of mole hills, Byzantine architecture was built to impress. Walking into a lavishly decorated basilica with high domed ceilings and a blanket of gold ornamentation, worshipers would have been under no illusions about the power and wealth of the emperors.
How to spot it: multiple domes and sumptuous decoration.
Where to find it: Aya Sofya, Istanbul; St Mark’s Basilica, Venice; Sacré Coeur, Paris (Byzantine revival).
You don’t need to hold it up – The Leaning Tower of Pisa, Italy, was built to last © James Farley / Getty Images
Romanesque
Era: 900-1200
The heavyweight of medieval architecture, Romanesque (called Norman in the UK) buildings were big, brawny and simple. A lack of technical know-how meant thick walls, massive columns and rounded arches were necessities while windows were small, vaults were built like barrels and decoration was confined to lozenges, chevrons or zigzags.
How to spot it: rounded arches and thick columns.
Where to find it: Leaning Tower of Pisa; San Gimignano, Italy; Durham Cathedral, England.
Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris, is a fine example of gothic architecture © TARDY Herv / Getty Images
Gothic
Era: 12th-16th centuries
The lovechild of improved building techniques and European prosperity, the Gothic style spawned buildings that were taller, lighter and brighter than ever before. Embraced by the church and state, the new style quickly swept across Europe. The key element is the pointed arch but the strength of the Gothic revival from the mid-18th to mid-20th century means that many you see will be much later in date.
How to spot it: pointed arches, narrow columns, ribbed vaulting, towering spires, flying buttresses.
Where to find it: Notre Dame, Paris; Westminster Abbey, London; Cologne Cathedral, Germany.
St Peter’s Basilica, Rome – one of the city’s many architectural delights © RudyBalasko / Getty Images
Renaissance
Era: 14th-17th century Europe
It’s revision time. Remember those classical orders of architecture? They’re back in fashion. As classical philosophy and ideas on arts and literature were revived, architects too returned to the proportion and symmetry of classical Greek structures but embellished them in lavish ways.
How to spot it: classical style of columns, pediments and domes refined and developed.
Where to find it: Florence and Milan Cathedrals; Louvre, Paris; St Peter’s Basilica, Rome.
Visitors get a grand welcome at the Palace of Versailles, France © Daniel Haug / Getty Images
Baroque and rococo
Era: 1600-1750
With all the pomp and pomposity of a powdered wig, baroque architecture was a sugary confection of extravagant ornamentation. The baroque period added more elaborate decorative features to buildings than ever before and by the late 18th-century had become the totally theatrical rococo, where every surface was awash with flamboyant flourishes.
How to spot it: extensive ornamentation, ceiling frescoes, dramatic use of light.
Where to find it: Versailles, France; Trevi Fountain, Rome; St Paul’s, London.
Everything’s in order at the White House, Washington DC © Walter Bibikow / Getty Images
Neoclassicism
Era: mid-18th century Europe
Repulsed by the sickly-sweet excesses of the rococo era, prim and proper neoclassicism returned to ancient Greece and Rome for inspiration. Unlike during the Renaissance, it played strictly by the rules in a sometimes severe reincarnation of the original styles.
How to spot it: columns, pediments and domes in strictly proportional designs.
Where to find it: The White House, Washington, DC; Hermitage, St Petersburg; Brandenburg Gate, Berlin.
Paris’ metro entrances add a little flair to the commute © Images Etc Ltd / Getty Images
Art nouveau
Era: 1890-1910
Curvy, leafy and forever associated with Paris thanks to its iconic Metro entrances, art nouveau was a short-lived movement that saw weaving, plant-like designs and flowing natural forms permeate everything from furniture design to architecture.
How to spot it: flowing lines, organic forms and decorative plant-like designs.
Where to find it: Musée Horta, Brussels; Paris Metro entrances; Lavirotte Building, Paris.
The Chrysler building’s spire shining in the New York evening sun © C. Taylor Crothers / Getty Images
Art deco
Era: 1915-1930
All the glamour and sophistication of the roaring 20s is reflected in art deco architecture and its expensive materials and clean, geometric design. Flappers danced in jazz clubs, the great Gatsbys threw wild parties and architects cleverly used minimal decoration to create a sense of unbridled luxury.
How to spot it: use of chrome, geometric motifs and strong colours.
Where to find it: Chrysler Building; Empire State Building; Miami Beach; Napier, New Zealand.
The design of London’s Barbican Complex is harsh but beautiful © VictorHuang / Getty Images
Modernism
Era: early 20th century to 1980s
Austere, minimalist and unrepentantly plain, modernism insisted design should be dictated by function. Rectangular and cubist shapes, reinforced concrete, open-plan design, large windows and a lack of ornamentation are its hallmarks.
How to spot it: plain, rectilinear buildings using reinforced concrete and open-plan designs.
Where to find it: Boston City Hall; Barbican, London; Fallingwater, Pennsylvania; Brasília.
HSBC headquarters stands proud in Hong Kong © Michael Coyne / Getty Images
High-tech architecture
Era: 1960-1985
The architectural equivalent of wearing your clothes inside out, high-tech architecture gleefully embraced new technology and materials and showed it all off on the outside. Inside, these buildings had flexible layouts with moveable room divisions.
How to spot it: pipes and structural elements on the outside of the building.
Where to find it: Centre Pompidou, Paris; HSBC HQ, Hong Kong; Patscenter, Princeton.
Postmodernism can be hard to recognise – just like spies… MI6 building, London © VictorHuang / Getty Images
Postmodernism
Era: 1960s to present
Experimental, controversial and playful, postmodernism replaced the puritanical principles of modernism with fun, irony and bright colours. Anything goes in this movement making it hard to recognise, but whimsical references to classical architecture were common and frequently provoked scorn.
How to spot it: bright colours mixed with odd shapes and a nod to the classical orders.
Where to find it: Staatsgalerie extension, Stuttgart; The Portland Building; MI6 London; M2 Tokyo.
Travel to the future at City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia © Laura Grier / Getty Images
Neo-futurism
Era: 1960s to present
Wilder than a Hollywood sci-fi set department, neo-futurism blends the latest technologies with brilliant minds and unbridled creativity, pushing materials and concepts beyond all previous boundaries. Buildings bend and twist in mysterious ways, lean at impossible angles and sweep along in undulating curves.
How to spot it: sharp free-form curves and fragmented geometry.
Where to find it: Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre, Azerbaijan; City of Arts & Sciences, Valencia; The Gherkin (30 St Mary’s Axe), London.
Who said walls need to be straight? EMP Museum Building, Seattle © Artie Photography (Artie Ng) / Getty Images
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Deconstructivism
Era: 1960s to present
Trippy, mind-bending architecture that looks like it may just have begun to melt, deconstructivism’s weird free-form shapes, sloping walls and distorted surfaces are instantly recognisable. Anarchic and disorderly yet meticulously planned, a visit to one of these buildings can be a perplexing experience.
How to spot it: distorted, flowing shapes, often in reflective materials.
Where to find it: Guggenheim, Bilbao; Der Neue Zollhof, Düsseldorf; The Museum of Pop Culture, Seattle; Jewish Museum, Berlin.
Grenoble for first timers
‘At the end of every street, there’s a mountain,’ the writer Stendhal famously said about his hometown of Grenoble, France. Set amidst three glorious massifs and spliced by two glacial rivers, nature’s divinity is still on the city’s doorstep, but first-timers should start with its wonderful museums and distinct local cuisine.
Fly up to Fort de la Bastille
For the best introduction to Grenoble, hop onto the bubble-like téléférique, the cable car that floats up over the Isère River to Fort de la Bastille. Perched high above the city, this 19-century military fortress was erected to defend France against the Duchy of Savoy. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the stunning 360-degree panorama breezes out as far as Mont Blanc if the day is clear enough.
The téléférique cable car goes up to the Fort de la Bastille © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Delve into the region’s history
To gain a fuller sense of the area, clamber up Montée Chalemont, the ancient Roman road that winds past the red roofs of the city, and go into Musée Dauphinois. This former 17th-century convent is now an absorbing regional museum that explores the culture and traditions of the Dauphinois people. Its ‘People of the Alps’ section is particularly intriguing as it documents the lives of locals through old photos, timeworn clothes and outdated farming machinery.
Digest some contemporary art
Founded in 1798, the stirring Musée de Grenoble is still regarded as one of France’s finest art institutions. Its abundant collection includes Egyptian antiquities and artwork from the 13th century onward, but what the museum really excels at is contemporary art. The bright, light-filled gallery has honoured the likes of Georgia O’Keeffe and Wassily Kandinsky in the past, whilst still finding space for more than 4000 paintings, including works by Renoir and Monet.
The Musée de Grenoble rivals Paris for its art collection © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Become a comic book convert
For years, the Sainte-Cécile convent (couventsaintececile.com) has been converted for all manner of purposes. Aside from being a religious sanctuary, it has been a theatre, cinema and a military base. But since the Glénat publishing house moved in around 2009, it seems to have finally found its calling: comic books. Boasting a library of more than 20,000 titles, visits also allow visitors to see the restoration of the cloister and its impressive staircase. Jacques Glénat’s private art collection is on show too. Seek out the colourful stained glass windows designed by Dutch comic designer Joost Swarte and the statue of the famous comic book character Titeuf, which sits out front.
Cycle to the écoquartier
Despite its proximity to the mountains, Grenoble is surprisingly flat, so make the most of the city’s Métrovélo bicycle rental scheme and glide to Caserne de Bonne (la-caserne-de-bonne.com), a shopping centre that’s also home to France’s first écoquartier (green neighbourhood). Built on the grounds of a former military barracks, this sustainable development has a lovely park with fish-filled ponds and plenty of great street art. Look out for Snek’s striking L’Arme de Paix, which depicts a woman crying, and Nevercrew’s Ordering Machine which shows two whales caught up in a towel.
Street Art Fest Grenoble has left its mark across the city © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Indulge in some gastronomic treats
Cheese haven, Fromagerie des Alpages (les-alpages.fr), is easy to spot by the long lines stretching like melted mozzarella from the door. This award-winning cheesemongers is a treasure trove of dairy delights offering Savoie, Beaufort, Bleu de Sassenage, Saint-Marcellin, raclette and reblochon cheeses. One block down is artisan chocolatier, Chocolaterie Bochard (chocolaterie-bochard.com). This ritzy store sells an assortment of sweet treats in beautifully packaged boxes, but the star attraction is Le Mandarin, small chocolate-covered clementines.
Explore the lanes around Place Notre-Dame
There is no better place to test Stendhal’s notion about massifs lurking on street corners than the alleyways leading from Place Notre-Dame. Wander the narrow streets of this historic centre and you’ll soon stumble upon handsome squares, artfully decorated fountains and plenty of tempting terrace bars. Before long, the cobbles of Place Saint-André will appear, where the city’s most beautiful building, Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné, resides. This former courthouse from the 16thcentury splendidly mixes Gothic and neo-Renaissance elements.
The sun sets over the Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Drink an elixir of life
Unless you’ve vowed to live a solitary life of quiet contemplation, don’t expect to gain entry to the Grande Chartreuse monastery, 30 winding minutes north of Grenoble. Instead, hike the surrounding mountains and wild meadows before heading to the Chartreuse Cellars (chartreuse.fr) in neighbouring Voiron for a taste of the monastery’s famous spirit, chartreuse. The pungent herbal liqueur, made from a mixture of 130 herbs, follows an ancient manuscript passed onto monks by François Annibal d’Estrées, the Marshal of France in the 1600s. The original manuscript, most likely written by a 16th-century alchemist, was thought to contain an elixir, but it proved so complicated to decipher that only part of it was used to make the spirit.
The Grande Chartreuse monastery resides high up the mountains © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Dine at one of the oldest cafes in France
Follow in the fork-steps of Rousseau and Stendhal by eating at the feted Café de la Table Ronde (restaurant-tableronde-grenoble.com), reputedly France’s second oldest café after Le Procope in Paris. The pewter counter, antique mirrors and period chandeliers contribute to the brasserie’s classic good looks. Start with the braised diots (mountain sausages) with gratin dauphinois, and finish off with a tarte aux noix (walnut tart), made with local Grenoble walnuts, and served with a scoop of walnut ice cream.
Eat like an artist at the revered Café de la Table Ronde © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
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Explore the revitalised industrial area
Once the industrial heart of Grenoble, Bouchayer-Viallet is now slowly being reconquered by grass and greenery. Housed in an old industrial hall built for Gustave Eiffel, the vast Le Magasin – Centre National d’Art Contemporain is now a cutting-edge centre for the arts. The building itself has been restored to its former glory and is next door to La Belle Electrique (la-belle-electrique.com), a brand new concert hall compassionately designed with curved windows and wooden slats.
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A guide to Copenhagen’s neighbourhoods
The image most often associated with Copenhagen is that of the colourful buildings and tall ships lining the sparkling waters of Nyhavn. This beautiful and beloved spot in the the aptly named Indre By (inner city) is undoubtedly the most familiar area for visitors to the city. But look a bit further and you’ll discover Copenhagen’s other eclectic neighbourhoods, each with a personality all of its own.
Colourful Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s most famous scene © Caroline Hadamitzky / Lonely Planet
Indre By: the tourist hub
The popular inner city is the heart of Copenhagen, and its most visited neighbourhood. Nyhavn is just one of many major sights in this part of the city, which is also home to the family-friendly Tivoli Gardensamusement park, Strøget, the lively pedestrianised shopping street, and the fabled Little Mermaid statue, which sits right on the edge of the city centre.
This historic area is a fantastic place to explore many of the city’s cobblestone streets, charming squares, and excellent museums. At the royal residence of Amalienborg Slot, visitors can watch the Changing of the Guard and try to get a glimpse of the Queen, while Christiansborg Palace offers a look into the workings of Denmark’s monarchy and government.
Indre By is also a foodie paradise, home to many of the city’s top restaurants, including Michelin-starred AOC and Kokkeriet, the more modest yet fabulous Höst and Uformel, as well as the wonderful market Torvehallerne, packed with vendors selling fresh produce.
Though it’s not the easiest place to go off the beaten path, the abundance of sights, flavours, and experiences in bustling Indre By, combined with its lively atmosphere, makes it a must-see for any visitor.
Vesterbro: the happening hotspot
Once the most destitute area of the city, Vesterbro is still Copenhagen’s red-light district, though it’s not quite as seedy as similar areas in Amsterdam or Berlin. The neighbourhood’s vintage shops and summertime street markets give it a local and independent vibe, while the street art here is perhaps the best in the city.
Vesterbro is a neighbourhood in transition, with an emerging reputation for good food and family living. Amid the sex shops and erotic dance clubs sit fashionable cafes like Mad & Kaffe, craft breweries including the acclaimed Mikkeller, and family-friendly parks such as the unique Skyebanehave. Kødbyen – The Meatpacking District – is chock full of fantastic restaurants featuring everything from innovative seafood at Kødbyens Fiskebar to down-home barbecue and beers at WarPigs (warpigs.dk).
Nørrebro: the melting pot
Vibrant Nørrebro sits just across Queen Louise’s bridge from Indre By, but has a completely different feel. Arguably the most diverse area of Copenhagen, the streets of Nørrebro are a mishmash of international grocery and clothing shops, lined up alongside secondhand stores and independent coffee shops.
Restaurants here run the gamut from Michelin-starred Relæ and Kiin Kiin (kiin.dk), to the noodles and pub food of craft beer meccas Ramen to Biiru (ramentobiiru.dk) and Nørrebro Bryghus. International flavours are well represented too, with restaurants such as Ma’ed Ethiopian (facebook.com/Maed-Ethiopian-Restaurant), and the legendary Kebabistan on Nørrebrogade.
Jægersborggade, once a haunt of bikers and drug dealers, is now home to quirky shops selling everything from liquid nitrogen ice cream to cacti, while Ravnsborggade tempts with antique and vintage shops.
Assistens Kirkegård cemetery is not only the resting place of famous Danes like Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kirkegaard, but also acts as a leafy green space perfect for quiet strolls. The sense of diversity and community is perhaps strongest at Superkilen, a unique and colourful park space furnished with sculptural pieces from around the world, representing an international spirit.
Østerbro: the suburb in the city
The least touristed of Copenhagen’s major neighbourhoods, upmarket Østerbro is a great place to get a glimpse of local life. Mainly residential, Østerbro offers an escape from the visiting crowds while still providing plenty of opportunities for dining, shopping, and enjoying the outdoors. The main street, Østerbrogade, is packed with exclusive boutiques such as Normann Copenhagen, in addition to coffee shops and cafes, including a branch of the fabulous porridge cafe Grød.
The expansive Fælledparken is a green oasis in the shadow of Parken Stadium (parken.dk), the unlikely home of Denmark’s only three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Geranium. Take in the area with a stroll along the easternmost of Copenhagen’s chain of lakes, or admire the colourful homes on Brumleby and Olufsvej.
Christianshavn: the intriguing island
Boats line the picturesque, Amsterdam-inspired canal of this artificial island in the city centre, lending a maritime feel. Locals sit along the water’s edge in the summer months, enjoying a picnic or a cold drink, while brave souls can climb the 400 steps up the golden spiral spire of the Church of Our Saviour for sweeping views of Copenhagen. The very modern Copenhagen Opera House is also found here, directly across the harbour from Amalienborg Palace.
In contrast is the Free Town of Christiania, a 34-hectare patch of land home to a commune-style alternative society formed in 1971.
While Christiania’s residents have dismantled its notorious Pusher Street hash market, its hand-built homes, artists’ workshops and natural beauty remain, and make for a fascinating look at an unconventional way of life.
The food scene in Christianshavn is as diverse as its residents: it boasts three Michelin-starred restaurants, including the famed Noma, considered one of the best in the world, while Papirøen (The Paper Island) is the home of Copenhagen Street Food, a warehouse turned foodie haven, offering up international foods from 35 stalls.
Frederiksberg: the posh neighbour
Though surrounded by Copenhagen, Frederiksberg is technically its own municipality; leafy Frederiksberg Alle leads the way from Vesterbro to this smart area. It’s a favourite with families and is filled with beautiful apartment buildings and green spaces.
Stylish shops and cafes abound, including Bertels Salon (bertelskager.dk) which boasts the best cheesecake in the city. Frederiksberg is also home to acclaimed restaurants such as the Michelin-starred French restaurant Formel B (formelb.dk), and Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. The latter serves a unique menu of Asian-inspired New Nordic dishes, using local, seasonal ingredients, including herbs and honey from their own garden.
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But the centrepiece of the area is Frederiksberg Have, an expansive park which encompasses an 18th century palace, a Chinese pavilion, a heron colony, and an elephant-viewing area overlooking the neighbouring Copenhagen Zoo. Across from the zoo lies Søndermarken, a green space with the historic Cisternerne below, which are now used for art exhibitions.
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Staging nature: the architectural highlights of Norway’s Ryfylke Tourist Route
Norway’s landscapes are majestic. Tall mountains tipping the sky flank deep coastal fjords on a scale so vast the sheer force of nature is astounding.
But along some of the country’s roads, its natural wonders are enhanced by pioneering architecture and design. On the award-winning National Tourist Routes, the journey is as memorable as the destination.
A total of 18 National Tourist Routes covering 1650km lead to Norway’s biggest attraction: the fjords. Over the past decade, the Public Roads Administration (vegvesen.no/en) has invested €250 million to create avant-garde stops along these routes that will encourage visitors to get out of their cars. Peppered with innumerable tunnels which cut through rock-solid massifs, and bridges which coast over large bodies of water seemingly effortlessly, Norway’s tourist routes are a stunning exercise in staging nature. And with highlights created by local and international architects, the Ryfylke Tourist Route stands out among them.
Inaugurated in 2011, the Ryfylke route in southwestern Norway stretches from Oanes at the mouth of Lysefjord to Håra in Røldal, through 183km of richly contrasting scenery, from towering mountains and boulder fields to lush isles and rolling hills. Above all, it promises an adventure at the edge of vertiginous fjords.
Framing the natural experience
The effort with which observation points have been created with the purpose of enhancing the landscape is truly impressive. Architectural sensations in true Norwegian style, simple yet striking, further intensify travellers’ experiences on the route.
Høsebrua pedestrian bridge is one such example. Designed by Rintala Eggertsson Architects, it’s an unassuming steel structure, outstanding in its minimalism, and offers an unmatched view of Sandsfossen falls. With metal grid floors and see-through walls, the viewing experience is heightened at night when the bridge is brilliantly lit.
While grandiose sites like Preikestolen, also known as Pulpit Rock, don’t need an extra boost through architecture, other lesser-known places do, believes architect Simon Ewing of Oslo’s world-renowned Snøhetta firm. ‘By making an architectural gesture that focuses the viewer on the natural phenomenon, we’re distilling the experience,’ he says. Inspired by the fact that the distance between towns in Norway can be very long, the concept on this route was to add points of focus, creating the illusion of shorter journeys.
At Svandalsfossen, further along the Ryfylke route, you’ll find proof that some of Norway’s most spectacular assets are its waterfalls. The greater the rainfall, the mightier a spectacle you’re in for – a mist of spray will greet you on the road. Take in the raging waterfall up close from beneath the adjacent road bridge, or climb the 540 zigzagging steps – a brilliant architectural juxtaposition from which you’ll have unobstructed views – and look up in awe at the highest stage of the falls. The closer you get, the more intimidating the fury of the cascading water feels.
Norwegian functionalism at its very best
Perhaps the most talked-about attraction along the route is the collection of dark shanties on stilts erected at the Allmannajuvet zinc mines. Commissioned by the Norwegian Public Roads Administration to welcome visitors as part of a tribute to Sauda’s mining operations between 1881 and 1899, Pritzker Prize–winning architect Peter Zumthor designed a thought-provoking centre portraying the workers’ life of hardship.
The simple complex consists of a museum and a cafe building, along with a nature trail and parking facilities. The official opening took place in September 2016, following a €14 million investment, and the site is due to open to the public in the 2017 season, when visitors will be able to explore on guided tours.
A long drive through remote, otherworldly vistas leads to the small village of Nesflaten, on the northern shore of Suldalsvatnet, home to Hydro’s hydroelectric plant. Designed in the 1960s by the legendary architect Geir Grung, the circular, concrete power station is an iconic symbol of the hydropower development in Suldal. But what most captures the eye here, and attracts design aficionados from further afield, is the building up the hill.
While down in the village two settlements emerged, for workers and middle-management, senior managers had their own hotel up top. This was seen as ‘a scandal in the flat Norwegian social structure’ says entrepreneur Olav Lindseth, who took over the building from the power company. He now runs it as Energiehotellet, a curious sight in a village where tents, camper vans and grass-roofed hytter dominate. ‘We strongly believe in architecture tourism, one of the fastest growing niches in the world,’ he says.
Inside the rooms, the design is minimalist. No art, no cozy rugs, no frills whatsoever. Rather, the focus shifts towards the landscape seen through the floor-to-ceiling windows, creating the illusion of a postcard. With its simple lines and use of utilitarian materials such as concrete and wood, the hotel and accompanying structures are some of the finest and best-preserved examples of Norwegian functionalism. And yet, in the reception area, the late Geir Grung took a stance against the minimal with a giant gold-plated steel panel, the chimney centrepiece. The original black-leather-cushioned chairs also remain.
By stripping away the visual noise and clutter, the hotel plays its part well in intensifying the drama of the surrounding scenery. Connecting with nature is the essence of Norwegian society and, by glorifying the surroundings, Energiehotellet and the other architectural spotlights on the Ryfylke route offer a way to do exactly that.
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Make it happen
Connect by plane to Stavanger Airport, the nearest to the Ryfylke route, from which the best way to explore is by rental car. Come prepared with warm layers, an umbrella, waterproof jacket and sturdy shoes. For more information on attractions along the Ryfyke National Route, go to Visit Norway (visitnorway.com/places-to-go/fjord-norway/ryfylke).
Monica Suma travelled to Norway with support from Visit Norway (visitnorway.com). Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
Don’t know the difference between a plinth and a pilaster? You don’t need to be an expert to recognise a good building but understanding a little about architectural history and theory can make a walk around an unfamiliar city all the more rewarding.
Get to grips with the basics and see how many styles you can identify while on the road with our simple guide.
The Colosseum, Rome – a classic example of classical architecture © Steve Whiston / Getty Images
Classical
Era: 850 BC to 476 AD
The mother of all architectural styles, the elegant proportions and stately poise of classical architecture sired a legion of later revivals. The grand temples and civic structures of ancient Greece and Rome followed strict rules known as the ‘orders’ of architecture. The three most important are Doric, Ionic and Corinthian; all easily recognisable from their capitals (the decorative bit at the top of the columns).
How to spot it: Doric: plain capitals. Ionic: scroll-like capitals. Corinthian: elaborate capitals with carved acanthus leaves.
Where to find it: the Colosseum or Pantheon in Rome; the Acropolis, Athens.
The domes of Aya Sofya (Istanbul) dazzle, whether viewed from inside or out © Kav Dadfar / Getty Images
Byzantine
Era: 330-1453
With glittering mosaics and more domes than a field full of mole hills, Byzantine architecture was built to impress. Walking into a lavishly decorated basilica with high domed ceilings and a blanket of gold ornamentation, worshipers would have been under no illusions about the power and wealth of the emperors.
How to spot it: multiple domes and sumptuous decoration.
Where to find it: Aya Sofya, Istanbul; St Mark’s Basilica, Venice; Sacré Coeur, Paris (Byzantine revival).
You don’t need to hold it up – The Leaning Tower of Pisa, Italy, was built to last © James Farley / Getty Images
Romanesque
Era: 900-1200
The heavyweight of medieval architecture, Romanesque (called Norman in the UK) buildings were big, brawny and simple. A lack of technical know-how meant thick walls, massive columns and rounded arches were necessities while windows were small, vaults were built like barrels and decoration was confined to lozenges, chevrons or zigzags.
How to spot it: rounded arches and thick columns.
Where to find it: Leaning Tower of Pisa; San Gimignano, Italy; Durham Cathedral, England.
Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris, is a fine example of gothic architecture © TARDY Herv / Getty Images
Gothic
Era: 12th-16th centuries
The lovechild of improved building techniques and European prosperity, the Gothic style spawned buildings that were taller, lighter and brighter than ever before. Embraced by the church and state, the new style quickly swept across Europe. The key element is the pointed arch but the strength of the Gothic revival from the mid-18th to mid-20th century means that many you see will be much later in date.
How to spot it: pointed arches, narrow columns, ribbed vaulting, towering spires, flying buttresses.
Where to find it: Notre Dame, Paris; Westminster Abbey, London; Cologne Cathedral, Germany.
St Peter’s Basilica, Rome – one of the city’s many architectural delights © RudyBalasko / Getty Images
Renaissance
Era: 14th-17th century Europe
It’s revision time. Remember those classical orders of architecture? They’re back in fashion. As classical philosophy and ideas on arts and literature were revived, architects too returned to the proportion and symmetry of classical Greek structures but embellished them in lavish ways.
How to spot it: classical style of columns, pediments and domes refined and developed.
Where to find it: Florence and Milan Cathedrals; Louvre, Paris; St Peter’s Basilica, Rome.
Visitors get a grand welcome at the Palace of Versailles, France © Daniel Haug / Getty Images
Baroque and rococo
Era: 1600-1750
With all the pomp and pomposity of a powdered wig, baroque architecture was a sugary confection of extravagant ornamentation. The baroque period added more elaborate decorative features to buildings than ever before and by the late 18th-century had become the totally theatrical rococo, where every surface was awash with flamboyant flourishes.
How to spot it: extensive ornamentation, ceiling frescoes, dramatic use of light.
Where to find it: Versailles, France; Trevi Fountain, Rome; St Paul’s, London.
Everything’s in order at the White House, Washington DC © Walter Bibikow / Getty Images
Neoclassicism
Era: mid-18th century Europe
Repulsed by the sickly-sweet excesses of the rococo era, prim and proper neoclassicism returned to ancient Greece and Rome for inspiration. Unlike during the Renaissance, it played strictly by the rules in a sometimes severe reincarnation of the original styles.
How to spot it: columns, pediments and domes in strictly proportional designs.
Where to find it: The White House, Washington, DC; Hermitage, St Petersburg; Brandenburg Gate, Berlin.
Paris’ metro entrances add a little flair to the commute © Images Etc Ltd / Getty Images
Art nouveau
Era: 1890-1910
Curvy, leafy and forever associated with Paris thanks to its iconic Metro entrances, art nouveau was a short-lived movement that saw weaving, plant-like designs and flowing natural forms permeate everything from furniture design to architecture.
How to spot it: flowing lines, organic forms and decorative plant-like designs.
Where to find it: Musée Horta, Brussels; Paris Metro entrances; Lavirotte Building, Paris.
The Chrysler building’s spire shining in the New York evening sun © C. Taylor Crothers / Getty Images
Art deco
Era: 1915-1930
All the glamour and sophistication of the roaring 20s is reflected in art deco architecture and its expensive materials and clean, geometric design. Flappers danced in jazz clubs, the great Gatsbys threw wild parties and architects cleverly used minimal decoration to create a sense of unbridled luxury.
How to spot it: use of chrome, geometric motifs and strong colours.
Where to find it: Chrysler Building; Empire State Building; Miami Beach; Napier, New Zealand.
The design of London’s Barbican Complex is harsh but beautiful © VictorHuang / Getty Images
Modernism
Era: early 20th century to 1980s
Austere, minimalist and unrepentantly plain, modernism insisted design should be dictated by function. Rectangular and cubist shapes, reinforced concrete, open-plan design, large windows and a lack of ornamentation are its hallmarks.
How to spot it: plain, rectilinear buildings using reinforced concrete and open-plan designs.
Where to find it: Boston City Hall; Barbican, London; Fallingwater, Pennsylvania; Brasília.
HSBC headquarters stands proud in Hong Kong © Michael Coyne / Getty Images
High-tech architecture
Era: 1960-1985
The architectural equivalent of wearing your clothes inside out, high-tech architecture gleefully embraced new technology and materials and showed it all off on the outside. Inside, these buildings had flexible layouts with moveable room divisions.
How to spot it: pipes and structural elements on the outside of the building.
Where to find it: Centre Pompidou, Paris; HSBC HQ, Hong Kong; Patscenter, Princeton.
Postmodernism can be hard to recognise – just like spies… MI6 building, London © VictorHuang / Getty Images
Postmodernism
Era: 1960s to present
Experimental, controversial and playful, postmodernism replaced the puritanical principles of modernism with fun, irony and bright colours. Anything goes in this movement making it hard to recognise, but whimsical references to classical architecture were common and frequently provoked scorn.
How to spot it: bright colours mixed with odd shapes and a nod to the classical orders.
Where to find it: Staatsgalerie extension, Stuttgart; The Portland Building; MI6 London; M2 Tokyo.
Travel to the future at City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia © Laura Grier / Getty Images
Neo-futurism
Era: 1960s to present
Wilder than a Hollywood sci-fi set department, neo-futurism blends the latest technologies with brilliant minds and unbridled creativity, pushing materials and concepts beyond all previous boundaries. Buildings bend and twist in mysterious ways, lean at impossible angles and sweep along in undulating curves.
How to spot it: sharp free-form curves and fragmented geometry.
Where to find it: Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre, Azerbaijan; City of Arts & Sciences, Valencia; The Gherkin (30 St Mary’s Axe), London.
Who said walls need to be straight? EMP Museum Building, Seattle © Artie Photography (Artie Ng) / Getty Images
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Deconstructivism
Era: 1960s to present
Trippy, mind-bending architecture that looks like it may just have begun to melt, deconstructivism’s weird free-form shapes, sloping walls and distorted surfaces are instantly recognisable. Anarchic and disorderly yet meticulously planned, a visit to one of these buildings can be a perplexing experience.
How to spot it: distorted, flowing shapes, often in reflective materials.
Where to find it: Guggenheim, Bilbao; Der Neue Zollhof, Düsseldorf; The Museum of Pop Culture, Seattle; Jewish Museum, Berlin.
Grenoble for first timers
‘At the end of every street, there’s a mountain,’ the writer Stendhal famously said about his hometown of Grenoble, France. Set amidst three glorious massifs and spliced by two glacial rivers, nature’s divinity is still on the city’s doorstep, but first-timers should start with its wonderful museums and distinct local cuisine.
Fly up to Fort de la Bastille
For the best introduction to Grenoble, hop onto the bubble-like téléférique, the cable car that floats up over the Isère River to Fort de la Bastille. Perched high above the city, this 19-century military fortress was erected to defend France against the Duchy of Savoy. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the stunning 360-degree panorama breezes out as far as Mont Blanc if the day is clear enough.
The téléférique cable car goes up to the Fort de la Bastille © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Delve into the region’s history
To gain a fuller sense of the area, clamber up Montée Chalemont, the ancient Roman road that winds past the red roofs of the city, and go into Musée Dauphinois. This former 17th-century convent is now an absorbing regional museum that explores the culture and traditions of the Dauphinois people. Its ‘People of the Alps’ section is particularly intriguing as it documents the lives of locals through old photos, timeworn clothes and outdated farming machinery.
Digest some contemporary art
Founded in 1798, the stirring Musée de Grenoble is still regarded as one of France’s finest art institutions. Its abundant collection includes Egyptian antiquities and artwork from the 13th century onward, but what the museum really excels at is contemporary art. The bright, light-filled gallery has honoured the likes of Georgia O’Keeffe and Wassily Kandinsky in the past, whilst still finding space for more than 4000 paintings, including works by Renoir and Monet.
The Musée de Grenoble rivals Paris for its art collection © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Become a comic book convert
For years, the Sainte-Cécile convent (couventsaintececile.com) has been converted for all manner of purposes. Aside from being a religious sanctuary, it has been a theatre, cinema and a military base. But since the Glénat publishing house moved in around 2009, it seems to have finally found its calling: comic books. Boasting a library of more than 20,000 titles, visits also allow visitors to see the restoration of the cloister and its impressive staircase. Jacques Glénat’s private art collection is on show too. Seek out the colourful stained glass windows designed by Dutch comic designer Joost Swarte and the statue of the famous comic book character Titeuf, which sits out front.
Cycle to the écoquartier
Despite its proximity to the mountains, Grenoble is surprisingly flat, so make the most of the city’s Métrovélo bicycle rental scheme and glide to Caserne de Bonne (la-caserne-de-bonne.com), a shopping centre that’s also home to France’s first écoquartier (green neighbourhood). Built on the grounds of a former military barracks, this sustainable development has a lovely park with fish-filled ponds and plenty of great street art. Look out for Snek’s striking L’Arme de Paix, which depicts a woman crying, and Nevercrew’s Ordering Machine which shows two whales caught up in a towel.
Street Art Fest Grenoble has left its mark across the city © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Indulge in some gastronomic treats
Cheese haven, Fromagerie des Alpages (les-alpages.fr), is easy to spot by the long lines stretching like melted mozzarella from the door. This award-winning cheesemongers is a treasure trove of dairy delights offering Savoie, Beaufort, Bleu de Sassenage, Saint-Marcellin, raclette and reblochon cheeses. One block down is artisan chocolatier, Chocolaterie Bochard (chocolaterie-bochard.com). This ritzy store sells an assortment of sweet treats in beautifully packaged boxes, but the star attraction is Le Mandarin, small chocolate-covered clementines.
Explore the lanes around Place Notre-Dame
There is no better place to test Stendhal’s notion about massifs lurking on street corners than the alleyways leading from Place Notre-Dame. Wander the narrow streets of this historic centre and you’ll soon stumble upon handsome squares, artfully decorated fountains and plenty of tempting terrace bars. Before long, the cobbles of Place Saint-André will appear, where the city’s most beautiful building, Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné, resides. This former courthouse from the 16thcentury splendidly mixes Gothic and neo-Renaissance elements.
The sun sets over the Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Drink an elixir of life
Unless you’ve vowed to live a solitary life of quiet contemplation, don’t expect to gain entry to the Grande Chartreuse monastery, 30 winding minutes north of Grenoble. Instead, hike the surrounding mountains and wild meadows before heading to the Chartreuse Cellars (chartreuse.fr) in neighbouring Voiron for a taste of the monastery’s famous spirit, chartreuse. The pungent herbal liqueur, made from a mixture of 130 herbs, follows an ancient manuscript passed onto monks by François Annibal d’Estrées, the Marshal of France in the 1600s. The original manuscript, most likely written by a 16th-century alchemist, was thought to contain an elixir, but it proved so complicated to decipher that only part of it was used to make the spirit.
The Grande Chartreuse monastery resides high up the mountains © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
Dine at one of the oldest cafes in France
Follow in the fork-steps of Rousseau and Stendhal by eating at the feted Café de la Table Ronde (restaurant-tableronde-grenoble.com), reputedly France’s second oldest café after Le Procope in Paris. The pewter counter, antique mirrors and period chandeliers contribute to the brasserie’s classic good looks. Start with the braised diots (mountain sausages) with gratin dauphinois, and finish off with a tarte aux noix (walnut tart), made with local Grenoble walnuts, and served with a scoop of walnut ice cream.
Eat like an artist at the revered Café de la Table Ronde © Monica Suma / Lonely Planet
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Explore the revitalised industrial area
Once the industrial heart of Grenoble, Bouchayer-Viallet is now slowly being reconquered by grass and greenery. Housed in an old industrial hall built for Gustave Eiffel, the vast Le Magasin – Centre National d’Art Contemporain is now a cutting-edge centre for the arts. The building itself has been restored to its former glory and is next door to La Belle Electrique (la-belle-electrique.com), a brand new concert hall compassionately designed with curved windows and wooden slats.
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A guide to Copenhagen’s neighbourhoods
The image most often associated with Copenhagen is that of the colourful buildings and tall ships lining the sparkling waters of Nyhavn. This beautiful and beloved spot in the the aptly named Indre By (inner city) is undoubtedly the most familiar area for visitors to the city. But look a bit further and you’ll discover Copenhagen’s other eclectic neighbourhoods, each with a personality all of its own.
Colourful Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s most famous scene © Caroline Hadamitzky / Lonely Planet
Indre By: the tourist hub
The popular inner city is the heart of Copenhagen, and its most visited neighbourhood. Nyhavn is just one of many major sights in this part of the city, which is also home to the family-friendly Tivoli Gardensamusement park, Strøget, the lively pedestrianised shopping street, and the fabled Little Mermaid statue, which sits right on the edge of the city centre.
This historic area is a fantastic place to explore many of the city’s cobblestone streets, charming squares, and excellent museums. At the royal residence of Amalienborg Slot, visitors can watch the Changing of the Guard and try to get a glimpse of the Queen, while Christiansborg Palace offers a look into the workings of Denmark’s monarchy and government.
Indre By is also a foodie paradise, home to many of the city’s top restaurants, including Michelin-starred AOC and Kokkeriet, the more modest yet fabulous Höst and Uformel, as well as the wonderful market Torvehallerne, packed with vendors selling fresh produce.
Though it’s not the easiest place to go off the beaten path, the abundance of sights, flavours, and experiences in bustling Indre By, combined with its lively atmosphere, makes it a must-see for any visitor.
Vesterbro: the happening hotspot
Once the most destitute area of the city, Vesterbro is still Copenhagen’s red-light district, though it’s not quite as seedy as similar areas in Amsterdam or Berlin. The neighbourhood’s vintage shops and summertime street markets give it a local and independent vibe, while the street art here is perhaps the best in the city.
Vesterbro is a neighbourhood in transition, with an emerging reputation for good food and family living. Amid the sex shops and erotic dance clubs sit fashionable cafes like Mad & Kaffe, craft breweries including the acclaimed Mikkeller, and family-friendly parks such as the unique Skyebanehave. Kødbyen – The Meatpacking District – is chock full of fantastic restaurants featuring everything from innovative seafood at Kødbyens Fiskebar to down-home barbecue and beers at WarPigs (warpigs.dk).
Nørrebro: the melting pot
Vibrant Nørrebro sits just across Queen Louise’s bridge from Indre By, but has a completely different feel. Arguably the most diverse area of Copenhagen, the streets of Nørrebro are a mishmash of international grocery and clothing shops, lined up alongside secondhand stores and independent coffee shops.
Restaurants here run the gamut from Michelin-starred Relæ and Kiin Kiin (kiin.dk), to the noodles and pub food of craft beer meccas Ramen to Biiru (ramentobiiru.dk) and Nørrebro Bryghus. International flavours are well represented too, with restaurants such as Ma’ed Ethiopian (facebook.com/Maed-Ethiopian-Restaurant), and the legendary Kebabistan on Nørrebrogade.
Jægersborggade, once a haunt of bikers and drug dealers, is now home to quirky shops selling everything from liquid nitrogen ice cream to cacti, while Ravnsborggade tempts with antique and vintage shops.
Assistens Kirkegård cemetery is not only the resting place of famous Danes like Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kirkegaard, but also acts as a leafy green space perfect for quiet strolls. The sense of diversity and community is perhaps strongest at Superkilen, a unique and colourful park space furnished with sculptural pieces from around the world, representing an international spirit.
Østerbro: the suburb in the city
The least touristed of Copenhagen’s major neighbourhoods, upmarket Østerbro is a great place to get a glimpse of local life. Mainly residential, Østerbro offers an escape from the visiting crowds while still providing plenty of opportunities for dining, shopping, and enjoying the outdoors. The main street, Østerbrogade, is packed with exclusive boutiques such as Normann Copenhagen, in addition to coffee shops and cafes, including a branch of the fabulous porridge cafe Grød.
The expansive Fælledparken is a green oasis in the shadow of Parken Stadium (parken.dk), the unlikely home of Denmark’s only three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Geranium. Take in the area with a stroll along the easternmost of Copenhagen’s chain of lakes, or admire the colourful homes on Brumleby and Olufsvej.
Christianshavn: the intriguing island
Boats line the picturesque, Amsterdam-inspired canal of this artificial island in the city centre, lending a maritime feel. Locals sit along the water’s edge in the summer months, enjoying a picnic or a cold drink, while brave souls can climb the 400 steps up the golden spiral spire of the Church of Our Saviour for sweeping views of Copenhagen. The very modern Copenhagen Opera House is also found here, directly across the harbour from Amalienborg Palace.
In contrast is the Free Town of Christiania, a 34-hectare patch of land home to a commune-style alternative society formed in 1971.
While Christiania’s residents have dismantled its notorious Pusher Street hash market, its hand-built homes, artists’ workshops and natural beauty remain, and make for a fascinating look at an unconventional way of life.
The food scene in Christianshavn is as diverse as its residents: it boasts three Michelin-starred restaurants, including the famed Noma, considered one of the best in the world, while Papirøen (The Paper Island) is the home of Copenhagen Street Food, a warehouse turned foodie haven, offering up international foods from 35 stalls.
Frederiksberg: the posh neighbour
Though surrounded by Copenhagen, Frederiksberg is technically its own municipality; leafy Frederiksberg Alle leads the way from Vesterbro to this smart area. It’s a favourite with families and is filled with beautiful apartment buildings and green spaces.
Stylish shops and cafes abound, including Bertels Salon (bertelskager.dk) which boasts the best cheesecake in the city. Frederiksberg is also home to acclaimed restaurants such as the Michelin-starred French restaurant Formel B (formelb.dk), and Mielcke & Hurtigkarl. The latter serves a unique menu of Asian-inspired New Nordic dishes, using local, seasonal ingredients, including herbs and honey from their own garden.
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But the centrepiece of the area is Frederiksberg Have, an expansive park which encompasses an 18th century palace, a Chinese pavilion, a heron colony, and an elephant-viewing area overlooking the neighbouring Copenhagen Zoo. Across from the zoo lies Søndermarken, a green space with the historic Cisternerne below, which are now used for art exhibitions.
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Staging nature: the architectural highlights of Norway’s Ryfylke Tourist Route
Norway’s landscapes are majestic. Tall mountains tipping the sky flank deep coastal fjords on a scale so vast the sheer force of nature is astounding.
But along some of the country’s roads, its natural wonders are enhanced by pioneering architecture and design. On the award-winning National Tourist Routes, the journey is as memorable as the destination.
A total of 18 National Tourist Routes covering 1650km lead to Norway’s biggest attraction: the fjords. Over the past decade, the Public Roads Administration (vegvesen.no/en) has invested €250 million to create avant-garde stops along these routes that will encourage visitors to get out of their cars. Peppered with innumerable tunnels which cut through rock-solid massifs, and bridges which coast over large bodies of water seemingly effortlessly, Norway’s tourist routes are a stunning exercise in staging nature. And with highlights created by local and international architects, the Ryfylke Tourist Route stands out among them.
Inaugurated in 2011, the Ryfylke route in southwestern Norway stretches from Oanes at the mouth of Lysefjord to Håra in Røldal, through 183km of richly contrasting scenery, from towering mountains and boulder fields to lush isles and rolling hills. Above all, it promises an adventure at the edge of vertiginous fjords.
Framing the natural experience
The effort with which observation points have been created with the purpose of enhancing the landscape is truly impressive. Architectural sensations in true Norwegian style, simple yet striking, further intensify travellers’ experiences on the route.
Høsebrua pedestrian bridge is one such example. Designed by Rintala Eggertsson Architects, it’s an unassuming steel structure, outstanding in its minimalism, and offers an unmatched view of Sandsfossen falls. With metal grid floors and see-through walls, the viewing experience is heightened at night when the bridge is brilliantly lit.
While grandiose sites like Preikestolen, also known as Pulpit Rock, don’t need an extra boost through architecture, other lesser-known places do, believes architect Simon Ewing of Oslo’s world-renowned Snøhetta firm. ‘By making an architectural gesture that focuses the viewer on the natural phenomenon, we’re distilling the experience,’ he says. Inspired by the fact that the distance between towns in Norway can be very long, the concept on this route was to add points of focus, creating the illusion of shorter journeys.
At Svandalsfossen, further along the Ryfylke route, you’ll find proof that some of Norway’s most spectacular assets are its waterfalls. The greater the rainfall, the mightier a spectacle you’re in for – a mist of spray will greet you on the road. Take in the raging waterfall up close from beneath the adjacent road bridge, or climb the 540 zigzagging steps – a brilliant architectural juxtaposition from which you’ll have unobstructed views – and look up in awe at the highest stage of the falls. The closer you get, the more intimidating the fury of the cascading water feels.
Norwegian functionalism at its very best
Perhaps the most talked-about attraction along the route is the collection of dark shanties on stilts erected at the Allmannajuvet zinc mines. Commissioned by the Norwegian Public Roads Administration to welcome visitors as part of a tribute to Sauda’s mining operations between 1881 and 1899, Pritzker Prize–winning architect Peter Zumthor designed a thought-provoking centre portraying the workers’ life of hardship.
The simple complex consists of a museum and a cafe building, along with a nature trail and parking facilities. The official opening took place in September 2016, following a €14 million investment, and the site is due to open to the public in the 2017 season, when visitors will be able to explore on guided tours.
A long drive through remote, otherworldly vistas leads to the small village of Nesflaten, on the northern shore of Suldalsvatnet, home to Hydro’s hydroelectric plant. Designed in the 1960s by the legendary architect Geir Grung, the circular, concrete power station is an iconic symbol of the hydropower development in Suldal. But what most captures the eye here, and attracts design aficionados from further afield, is the building up the hill.
While down in the village two settlements emerged, for workers and middle-management, senior managers had their own hotel up top. This was seen as ‘a scandal in the flat Norwegian social structure’ says entrepreneur Olav Lindseth, who took over the building from the power company. He now runs it as Energiehotellet, a curious sight in a village where tents, camper vans and grass-roofed hytter dominate. ‘We strongly believe in architecture tourism, one of the fastest growing niches in the world,’ he says.
Inside the rooms, the design is minimalist. No art, no cozy rugs, no frills whatsoever. Rather, the focus shifts towards the landscape seen through the floor-to-ceiling windows, creating the illusion of a postcard. With its simple lines and use of utilitarian materials such as concrete and wood, the hotel and accompanying structures are some of the finest and best-preserved examples of Norwegian functionalism. And yet, in the reception area, the late Geir Grung took a stance against the minimal with a giant gold-plated steel panel, the chimney centrepiece. The original black-leather-cushioned chairs also remain.
By stripping away the visual noise and clutter, the hotel plays its part well in intensifying the drama of the surrounding scenery. Connecting with nature is the essence of Norwegian society and, by glorifying the surroundings, Energiehotellet and the other architectural spotlights on the Ryfylke route offer a way to do exactly that.
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Make it happen
Connect by plane to Stavanger Airport, the nearest to the Ryfylke route, from which the best way to explore is by rental car. Come prepared with warm layers, an umbrella, waterproof jacket and sturdy shoes. For more information on attractions along the Ryfyke National Route, go to Visit Norway (visitnorway.com/places-to-go/fjord-norway/ryfylke).
Monica Suma travelled to Norway with support from Visit Norway (visitnorway.com). Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.